The History of Asiatic Jewellery: Ancient Persia
Jewellery of Bactria, Eastern Anatolia and the Iranian Plateau
Article Copyright © 2012 AllAboutGemstones.com
Humans have inhabited the Iranian plateau for thousands of years, and the region has stood at the crossroads of both eastern, and wester civilizations that traveled along the famed Silk Road. The region includes the ancient kingdoms of Parthia, Media and eastern Persia (west of the River Indus), all forming the heartland of "Greater Persia," which encompasses modern-day Afghanistan, Iran, and Pakistan.
No archaeological location has yielded more information about ancient Persian life than the excavations at Tillya Tepe ("Hill of Gold" or "Golden Mound"). The the hoard of "Bactrian gold" at Tillya Tepe (Tallya Tepe, Tillia Tepe or Talia Tappeh) consists of approximately 20,000 pieces of jewellery artifacts and gold ornaments that were found within six graves of five women and one man. The necropolis was first constructed around 1500 BC, possibly by a nomadic tribe that belonged to the indigenous Parthian or Scythian tribes, or to the distant Yuezhi royal dynasty from China [3].
Tallya Tepe Rings (ring photos: Phgcom) |
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Necklace from Talia Tappeh (photo: Phgcom) |
The jewelry at Tillya Tepe reflects the diversity of materials and motifs that were available along the Silk Route. Pieces at the site included Chinese-inspired gold buckles, Roman coins, and Siberian daggers, and a Grecian gold Aphrodite with the wings of a Bactrian deity, and an Indian forehead marking.
Every conceivable jewelry accessory was fond at the tombs, from brooches to appliques, bracelets, clasps, earrings, belts, pendants and rings. Many of the bejeweled artifacts were festooned with gemstones from distant locations. Locally mined amethyst (ring below, left), carnelian, lapis lazuli, pyrite and turquoise were combined with exotic amber from the Baltic region, ivory and red garnet from India, and mother-of-pearl and pearls from the Arabian Sea. Metalworking techniques such as cloisonné, engraving, granulation, filigree and repoussé.
The Persian Empire
The Persian Empire was one of the longest-running empires in human history, spanning over 2600 years, and stretching from Greece and Northern Africa (Libya) in the west, to the Indus River valley in the east. The Persian Empire was actually a succession of several Iranian (Iraniate) empires that ruled over the Iranian plateau from around 728 BC, until the collapse of the Qajar dynasty in 1925. Persia was situated at the heart of the ancient "Silk Road" trade route, and was the beneficiary of the many riches that transited from China to the Roman Empire.
The empire began around 500 BC, with the forming of the Median Empire (532 BC—369 BC), which defeated the Neo-Assyrian Empire (Lydian) with the help of Babylonia. The Medes were consolidated with the Achaemenid Empire (est. 705 BC—330 BC) under Teispes (died 640 BC) (son of Achaemenes), who became the King of Ansan, and the first King of Persia, after seizing the city of Ansan (modern Tall-i Malyan or Tepe Malyan) from the Neo-Elamites (1100 BC—539 BC).
Earthenware amulet pendant (c. 6th-4th cen BC) |
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Achaemenid Bracelet |
The empire's capital was at the ancient city of Persepolis, which began construction in 525 BC, as well as the ancient cities of Pasargadae and Susa. The size empire was greatly expanded under Cyrus II the Great (600/576 BC—530/529 BC) who ruled nearly thirty years, conquering the Median, the Lydian, and Neo-Babylonian empires, and dying in battle with the Scythians along the Syr Darya river in central Persia.
The Achaemenid Persian (Hakhamaneshiyan) Empire came to a close nearly five generations later, with the death of Darius III, or "Darius the Great" (336 BC—330 BC), who was killed in Bactria (modern-day Afghanistan) during the conquest of Alexander the Great. As an iconic motif, the sun was always associated with Persian royalty, and ancient Greek historians noted that a "crystal image" of the sun always adorned the royal tent of Darius III.
Elamite earring (4th cen BC), Scythian Pectoral (4th cen BC), Achaemenid agate necklace (c.350 BC) photos: Marie-Lan Nguyen
The Asiatic, or Persian Lion (Panthera leo persica) has also been an important motif in ancient Persia, closely associated with Persian kingship. The garments and throne decorations of the Achaemenid kings were embroidered with lion motifs, and the crown of king Antiochus I was adorned with a lion.
Pre-Islamic Art, Language & Religion
It was during Achaemenid Empire that the Iranian prophet Zoroaster ushered in the religion of Zoroastrianism (Mazdaism), which became a defining element of Persian culture, reaching every corner of the empire. The Zoroastrian religion believed in one universal and transcendental, or "uncreated" creator, Ahura Mazda, and divinities took on astral and planetary aspects. Fire (atar, adar) and water (apo, aban) are agents of ritual purity in Zoroastrianism, and good thoughts, good words or good deeds are necessary to ensure happiness, and to keep the chaos at bay.
Persian Achaemenid Coin (c. 490 BC) |
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Naqsh-e Rostam tombs |
Over the next nine centuries Persia was ruled by several dynasties which included the Parthian Empire (250 BC—AD 226) and the Sassanid Empire (226-651). The period of the Parthian Empire was marked by warfare with Mesopotamia and Rome, and frequent incursions by Scythian nomads. It was during this period that Greece began to exert an artistic influence on Persian culture, but it was also a period of dilution and decline for greater Persia.
During the Sassanid Empire, or "second Persian Empire," the rulers of this fourth imperial Iranian dynasty attempted to revive the glory of the Achaemenid Empire by reintroducing a Hellenistic (Greek) form of Zoroastrianism. During this period, Persia was one of the two main powers in Western Asia and Europe, lasting for a period of more than 400 years.
Frieze at the palace of Darius in Susa |
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Darius III (336 BC-330 BC) |
During the 6th century, the empire was expanded, trade routes were rebuilt, and "eternal peace" was declared with Rome's Emperor Justinian I, who paid Persian emperor Khosrau I a bribe of 440,000 pieces of gold to keep the peace. The peace did not last, and once again, Persia was on the march. The turning point for the second Persian Empire came when Byzantine emperor Heraclius (610—641 AD) began to push back, destroying the Zoroastrian temple at Ganzak and Khosrau II's palace of Dastagerd, leading to humiliation and defeat for the Persians, and the decline of the empire.
Islamic Persia
The last Sassanid emperor was Yazdgerd III. who tried to save his empire from invasion by the newly-formed Muslim Abbasid Caliphate, enlisting the assistance of the Chinese Tang dynasty general Su Dingfang. China was now able to claim control over the entire Silk Road as far west as Aria (present-day Herat in Western Afghanistan), enforcing rule with the help of the Göktürks who now carried Chinese titles, fighting side-by-side to maintain control. The defining blow came with the defeat of the Chinese forces at the battle of Talas, and by 750 the Abbasid dynasty was in total control over Persia.
Hasht-Behesht Palace in Isfahan (c.1669) |
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Shah Mosque in Esfahan |
Over the next several hundred years Arab and Islamic art and architecture would be blended with Persia's "Oriental" motifs which were influenced by East Asia, forming a unique style that is immediately recognizable as "Persian."
Khaju Bridge Esfahan |
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Darya-i-Nur 'Sea of Light' diamond |
The Shah Mosque in Esfahan (aka Isfahan, Nesfe Jahan, or "Half of the world") is one of the pinnacles of architecture in the Islamic world. The Mosque was built during the Safavids period of the early 1600s, and its splendor is due to the beauty and intricacy of its seven-colored mosaic tiles and calligraphic inscriptions.
Persian 'Lion and Sun' Motif
An important motif to the 12th century Persians was the combination of Lion and Sun, depicting the zodiacal sign of the sun in the house of Leo. The icon first appeared on the coinage of Kaykhusraw II, who was Sultan of the Seljuk Sultanate of Rûm from 1237 to 1246, but the linking of the two icons may predate the age of Zoroaster. This enduring symbol remained as part of the Iranian state flag until the Revolution of 1979, when it was replaced with the Islamic Republic Coat of Arms.
Persian Matrimonial Jewelry
As is common with most cultures, the gifting of jewelry played an important role in the courtship and betrothal process in Persia. Once consent was given by the bride's family, a day was arranged for the Nomzad, or wedding, and the bridegroom's family was expected to bring presents of jewellery, valued according to their means and positions in life.
On the day of the ceremony, the female friends and relations of the two families congregated in the harem. Several times throughout the day, the groom would meet his bride in a specially reserved section of the harem, each time bringing a present of jewelry or silk [8]. When the time arrived for the removal of the bride's embroidered veil another gift of jewelry was presented, which was known as the ruhmuhah, or "reward for showing the face."
The Persian Crown Jewels
The plundering of treasures from distant lands became the way of the world during the Islamic Persian Empire, and the Persians loved jewels - especially diamonds and emeralds. Many of the objects in the Imperial Crown Jewels of Persia (aka Crown Jewels of Iran, Iranian Crown Jewels) were acquired during the Safavid Dynasty (1502—1736 AD).
In 1719, the Persian capital of Esfahan was sacked by the Afghans, and the Iranian Crown Jewels plundered. A short decade later, Nader Shah Afshar drove the Afghans from Iran, launching his own campaign against the Afghanistan and northern India ("sack of Delhi"), returning to Iran with the remainder of the plundered jewels, as well as several new items.
Emerald coronation belt |
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Coronation necklace, Crown Jewels |
The Darya-i-Nur (Sea of Light) was a rare blue India's Golconda diamond that weighed 186 carats, which was owned by the last Great Mughal Emperor, Aurangzeb, until it was plundered from his heirs during the "sack of Delhi" in 1739. It is believed that the Darya-i-Nur is comprised of a major portion of Tavernier's "Great Table" diamond.
The priceless gem changed hands many times, owned by the Nadir Shah Afshar, Shah Rokh, Mirza-Alam Khan Khozeime, Mohammad Hassan Khan Qajar, Lotf-Ali Khan Zand, Agha Mohammad Khan Qajar, and Fath Ali Shah whose name is engraved on one side of the diamond. The stone was mounted in its elaborate setting by Nasser-ed-Din, which is surmounted by a Lion and Sun. The 41.40 x 29.50 x 12.15mm Darya-i-Nur now resides in Iran's Crown Jewels treasury.
Emerald necklace, Crown Jewels |
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Noor-ol-Ain Tiara, Crown Jewels |
The famed Koh-i-Noor (Mountain of Light) diamond was originally owned by the Mughal Emperor Shahab-ud-din Muhammad Shah Jahan I (1592—1666)—builder of the incomparable Taj Mahal in Agra—who mounted the stone in his Peacock throne. The Koh-i-Noor passed to his son Aurangzeb, who imprisoned his father at Agra Fort where legend says that the diamond was positioned near a window so that Shah Jahan could see the Taj Mahal only by looking at its reflection in the stone.
Like the Darya-i-Nur, the Koh-i-Noor was spirited off to Persia by Nadir Shah after the sack of Delhi. In 1830, the deposed ruler of Afghanistan, Shah Shuja fled to Lahore where the Koh-i-Noor was given to Ranjit Singh, the Sikh Maharaja of Punjab, in exchange for Singh persuading the Dutch East India Company to supply troops to help win back the Afghan throne for Shah Shuja.
Islam & Jewelry for Men or Women
Typically, men are discouraged from wearing most jewelry, especially gold, and many men only wear a ring of silver for a wedding band. Some believe that piercing is "haraam" according to Islam, and that earrings should even be discouraged for women because it is a deformation of Allah's creation. Although this is disputed by others, body piercing of any type for males would not be permissible under Islam. Women, on the other hand, are not only permitted, but encouraged to wear jewelry.
While the women of Old Persia were typically covered in public, wearing the long black cloak or veil called chador (chadar, Sanskrit: chattram), at family gatherings and/or special occasions in the home, women would show off their finest jewelry.
One special-occasion jewelry item was the diadem or tadji, which was worn over pulled-back hair that was parted in the center and knotted behind on the neck. For lesser occasions a smaller, more delicate diadem called a nim tadji would be worn as a headband around the center of the forehead. The tadji would typically be made of gold, and decorated with pearls, precious gemstones, or diamonds.
Other popular jewelry items included gold or silver bracelets, necklaces, and finger rings, decorated gems, pearls, amber, lapis lazuli or turquoise.
Bibliography on ancient Persian jewellery
1. Oppi Untracht, Jewelry Concepts & Technology - Complete Reference Guide  . Doubleday
2. William Meacham, The Neolithic of South China . www.jstor.org
3. Fredrik Hiebert, Tillya Tepe . Afghanistan's Hidden Treasures
4. CAIS, Afgna's Treasure-Troves in Paris Exhibition . www.cais-soas.com
5. Elena Neva, Types and Forms of Ancient Jewelry from Central Asia . www.transoxiana.org
6. Caroline Perry, Jewelry Inspired by Ancient Cultures . Running Press
7. Elena Neva, Types and Forms of Ancient Jewelry from Central Asia . www.transoxiana.org
8. H.S. Landor, Journey across coveted lands . McMillan & Co. Ltd.
9. Michel Danino, The Indus-Sarasvati Civilization . www.voiceofdharma.com
10. W. Harms, Oriental Institute returns ancient Iranian tablets . chronicle.uchicago.edu
11. Clare Phillips, Jewelry: From Antiquity to the Present . Thames & Hudson
12. F. Rogers, A. Beard, 5000 Years of Gems & Jewelry. FA Stokes Co., N.Y.
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