Jewelry Making: Gold Finishing, Scribing & Assembly
Pickling & Acid Dipping Gold
Article Copyright © 2012 AllAboutGemstones.com
Pickling, or "acid dipping," involves submerging the piece in a heated acid solution (usually acetic, citric or nitric acid) to chemically remove any sub-surface fire-staining and carbon deposits that resulted from the annealing process. Acid dipping is also used to dissolve surface oxides or oxidation and leftover flux.
The acid solution is then thoroughly removed from the piece by rinsing in cool water. The pickling process should remove all of the fire-stain and oxidation caused by the soldering stage.
Silver or Gold Polishing & Scribing
Abrasive blast-cleaning (aka sand-blasting) and texturing creates a "frost-textured" or matte finish on the surface of the metal.
Working the edge of the piece by using a tempered-steel burnisher lubricated with soap and water adds a highly reflective edge to the rim of the base.
A "graver" is used to create a star-burst pattern around the bezel by dragging the graver head outward to scribe the metal.
Adding Earring Links
Michael is using a "seating bur" to give a beveled edge to the hole to allow for free movement of the link within the hole, and allow free movement of the bangle.
The links and stud posts are soldered onto each piece, taking care not to overheat the piece and melt the solder joint between the bezel and backing.
After the final assembly of the links is completed, all metal parts are given a bath in the ultrasonic cleaner before final stone setting takes place.
Final Stone Setting
Before the stones are set, Michael takes one last pass at working the edge of the bezel using the tempered-steel burnisher lubricated with soap and water (below, left). This gives the metal edges a highly-polished highlight.
Each stones is placed into the bezel setting (above, right), and a bezel setting tool, "bezel rocker," or "bezel pusher" is used to apply slow, steady force, pressing the bezel firmly against the side of the stone (above, left).
The final finish is accomplished by brushing the gold surface with a brass "scratch brush" to give the metal a satin, or finely "scratched finish."
Although in may seem complicated, the entire process of making this pair of earrings should take around one hour, from start to final assembly and completion.
On To:
Page 2: Gold Annealing & Cold Rolling
Page 3: Stone Setting
Page 4: Final Finishing & Assembly
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Page 1: Jewellery Making & Design
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