Jewelry Making: Stone Setting
Gemstone Bezel Settings
Article Copyright © 2012 AllAboutGemstones.com
The Druzy quartz stone will be set in a "regular," or "plain" bezel (biseau or "chamfered") setting that would be a basic "closed" setting for a cabochon type cut stone. This type of simple bezel is also referred to as a "collet" setting. See: Gemstone Setting Types for more info.
The bezel is formed by using a pair of nylon-jawed ring-forming pliers to shape the thin-gauge bezel strip tightly around the cabochon stone. The bezel for the round stones can be formed using a ring mandrel or bezel mandrel.
Using a very fine tipped paintbrush, a small amount of soldering flux is painted onto the joint to prevent oxidation, and to help the solder flow into the joint. Tiny snippets of pure gold are used as solder.
Michael uses a borax-loaded soldering brush to place a solder snippet inside the pre-heated joint, and the metal is heated up to the point where the solder will flow. Capillary action (sweat soldering) will draw the solder into the joint.
A caliper is used to scribe a line around the bezel that will serve as a cutting guide. Using an adjustable jeweler's saw, the backing is cut away from the bezel. The work is supported in a grooved hardwood "bench-pin."
One last check is made to ensure that the stones fit properly into their bezel settings before moving on to the next phase of metalwork and cleaning.
Grinding & Burnishing the Bezel Setting
Deburring the rough cut metal edge is accomplished using a half-round hand file. A silicon carbide stone wheel or sanding drum is used to rough finish the backing to a smoothe, flat surface.
A larger knife-edged stone wheel is used to finish the side wall of the bezel. A small knife-edged grinding wheel is used to clean up the solder joint, and create a clean 90 degree angled corner.
Michael uses a steel burnisher to polish the inner edge of the bezel, giving a sharp, bright highlight. The stone is checked for fit one last time before the piece is given the pickling and cleaning process.
On To:
Page 2: Gold Annealing & Cold Rolling
Page 3: Stone Setting
Page 4: Final Finishing & Assembly
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Page 1: Jewellery Making & Design
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